Beer was, in Mesopotamia, neither luxury nor vice but staple; it was bread in liquid form, the daily nourishment of laboring men and the daily libation of the temples. The grain that became beer was holy, the brewing was holy, and the goddess who presided over the brewing — Ninkasi, the Lady Who Fills the Mouth — was a deity to whom the Sumerians turned with that practical and grateful affection reserved for the powers that supply the body's wants.
She was the daughter of Enki and of Ninti the Lady of the Rib (or, in another tradition, of Ninhursag); and her hymn, which has come down to us in Old Babylonian copies of an older Sumerian original, is among the oddest documents to survive from the ancient world. For it is at once a prayer and a recipe. The hymn praises Ninkasi as she pours the bappir-bread upon the great oven, soaks it in sweet aromatics, mixes the cooked mash with sweet wort, takes the filtered beer of the collector vat — and so on through every step of brewing, in language which the brewer might follow as instruction and the worshipper recite as devotion. The two were not, in Sumer, distinct activities.
When her beer was poured, it was poured before her image; and the brewer's craft was held to be itself a form of prayer. To know how to brew was to know how to honor her, and the same words sufficed for both.




